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5.1.15

Island Classic: Carhartts

For office-bound pencil-pushers (or keyboard punchers, more likely), updating a “work wardrobe” may mean a trip to a department store – or worse, to one of the fabled, multi-vendor compounds known to those on the mainland as “malls” – and stocking up on a season’s worth of pleated pants or collared shirts.  

But for many Vineyarders, the annual tradition likely involves an inventory of ripped knees and tattered hems, followed by the selection of a new crop of “work pants.” Carpenters, craftspeople, and other rugged, handy types are the heart of this Island, and as far as brand names go, their hearts – and legs – belong to Carhartt. 

The Full Carhartt: Rob Carberry in the Vineyard’s unofficial uniform for the working man.
Alison L. Mead

Born in New York in 1855, Hamilton Carhartt settled in Southern Michigan and developed an entrepreneurial spirit at a young age. After starting a furniture business (and adding an extra “t” to the end of his given name, Carhart, in order to stand out from the crowd), Carhartt recognized a demand for high-quality clothing to be worn by the predominantly blue-collar population of nearby Detroit.

Carhartt’s first foray into the world of apparel was a pair of cotton overalls, which he designed under the guidance of railroad engineers and tailored to suit the specific demands of railroad workers. Building from this signature product, he started the Carhartt brand in 1889, with five employees and four sewing machines cramped together in a warehouse attic. 

Carhartt’s fabric of choice was twelve-ounce cotton canvas, also known as “duck” (from the Dutch doek, meaning “cloth”). The canvas was sturdy and long-lasting, similar to the fabric used to make sails and tents, and perfect for working outdoors in harsh conditions.

During World War II, a new trend in pants-wear hit the American manufacturing scene, as military-inspired “cargo pants” were worn first by Army personnel and later by the general pubic. These durable pants with an abundance of front and side pockets were inspired by the British battle dress uniforms, and provided paratroopers with ready access to radios, ammunition, and other combat necessities.

The Carhartt brand adopted this stylish-yet-functional design and combined its solid reputation as a manufacturer of quality workwear with the new, multi-pocketed pant. Today, Carhartt offers pants in a variety of styles, from cargo to flat front, lightweight to flannel lined, all of which remain popular among everyone from college students to carpenters to graffiti artists (who, it would seem, also appreciate the extra warmth, durability and roomy pockets for stashing gear quickly).

As for the Vineyard’s Carhartt connection, it’s no surprise that comfort and durability go a long way here; an informal survey reveals the pants to be favored by landscapers, artists, roofers, and plumbers. Accessibility is certainly a factor. Carhartt products can’t be purchased just anywhere; vendors are limited to a certain number in any geographical region, but even on our small Island there are two: Basics, in Oak Bluffs, and Vineyard Cleaners in Vineyard Haven. Each store is committed to keeping the popular merchandise affordable, so as to compete with online and off-Island vendors.

Classic styles and sturdy craftsmanship have made Carhartt pants an Island wardrobe staple year after year. Which may mean that even after an older pair of hard-worn Carhartt pants has been replaced, the original is likely to live on in the workwear rotation (sometimes, as this writer’s husband can attest, longer than it should).

Find Them Around Town

Basics: The only other option for Carhartts on-Island, Basics in Oak Bluffs has long been a go-to provider of year-round gear. Thanks to a recent retail expansion, the store now carries a wider variety of Carhartt options, including the best-selling cargo pant at $47.99. (24 Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs.)